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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has made the owners totally shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble place earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary honour.